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W. F. KEARNEY. BOOT OR SHOEJ No. 383,303. Patented May 22, 1888.

N. PETERS. PIwmUuw n iwr. Washinglom D. c.

lUNrrE \VILLIAM F. KEARNEY, OF \VASHINGTON, DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA, AS-

SIGNOR OF ONE'FIFTH TO GEORGE D. TILLMAN, OF EDGEFIELD, SOUTH CAROLINA,AND J. ALTHEUS JOHNSON, HOW'ARD O. \VALL, LEWIS H. ROXVE, AND THOMASPARKER, ALL OF VASHINGTON, DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.

BOOT OR SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 383,303, dated May 22,1888.

Serial No. 260.700. (X model.

To all whom, it may concern:

Be it known that 1, WILLIAM F. KEARNEY, a citizen of the United States.residing at l/Vashington, in the District of Columbia, have invented newand useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots .or Shoes, of whichthe following is a specification.

My invention relates to the manufacture of boots or shoes, the purposethereof being to IO provide an improved method of lasting the samewithout the employment of nails or tacks, and without marring the innersurface of the insole. It is my purpose also to so construct and applythe slip-sole and the outer sole as to :5 provide for anincreascd periodof wear; or,in other words, to enable the purchaser to utilize both ofthe soles, the slip-sole being rendered capable of wear after the outersole is destroyed, either wholly or in part, thereby pro- 2 viding solesof different weight and adapted to different seasons of the year.

The invention consists in the several features of construction and newcombinations of parts hereinafter fully described, and then specificallydefined in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a bottom plan view, showing myimproved method of lasting. Fig. 2 is a cross-section of the marginalportion of the shoeinsoie and up- 0 per. Fig. 3 is a longitudinalsection of the same, taken in a line following the basting. Fig-4. is abottom plan view of ashoe having the slip-sole attached. Fig. 5 is across section of the marginal part of the shoe shown in 5 Fig. 4. Fig. 6is abottom plan view of the shoe with the outer sole attached, a portionof the welt being turned back. Fig. 7 is a transverse section of amarginal part of the shoe shown in Fig. 6. Fig. 8 is a side elevation ofthe completed article.

In the said drawings, the reference-numeral 1 designates the upper, andthe numeral 2 denotes the insole of an ordinary boot or shoe. In lastingthese parts I place the insole in the 5 last, fastening it by a fewtacks in the usual manner, and the upper is also drawn into place withits marginal portions overlapping theinsole, and a few nails or tacksare driven to confine it ten'lporarily in proper position. I then, bymeans of a suitable instrument, 5o baste the insole and upper together,taking care,howevcr,that the stitches shall follow the direction of themargin of the insole, and they should preferably pass into but notthrough the body of said insole, thereby giving the necessary temporaryattachment to the parts without laying a projecting seam upon the innersurface of the insole, which would require to be covered by a heavylining or otherwise prevented from injuring the foot ofthe wearer. 6c Bymaking a basting-stitch and carrying the thread 3 into but not throughthe insole, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3,1 am ableto accomplish this resultand at the same time perfectly lastthe upper. After lasting the shoe inthis man 65. ner,the tacks are knocked out and a slip sole, 4, isapplied to the ball of the shoe. This slipsole is channeled at adistance from its margin to receivca line of machine-stitching,5,whichunites the upper, insole, and slip sole 4. This seam will lie in achannel, 6, formed in the inner face of the insole for the purpose. Theshank 7 is then tacked, overlapping upon the rearward end of theslip-solel. I then apply the outer sole, 8, which is channeled in anyusual manner,and stitch the same in place, the stitching 9 passingthrough the insole, upper, and both the slip-soles 4 and shank 7, andbeing received in a channel,10, formed in the inner face of the insole,parallel with and slightly 8o removed from the channel 6, as shown inFig. 7, and by Figs. 4 and (3. The heel is then applied and the shoefinished off in any chosen manner. v

It will be seen that when the ball portion of the full outer sole, 8, isworn away, it maybe cut or detached along the line a, Fig. 8, and theremnants thrown away. This discloses the unworn surface of theslip-sole4,in which the attaching-seam is laid in a channehwhereby it 0is prevented from being rapidly worn away. By securing the cut edge ofthe outer solo by a few pegs or nails, or in any other suitable manner,the shoe may be worn for a further period or until the slip-sole 4 isalso worn out. The shoe may then be half soled, if desired.

This construction secures a material economy to the wearer or purchaser,besides enabling him to adapt the weight of the sole to the season ofthe year. For example, a pair of shoes purchased in the winter andhaving the heavy sole suitable for that season, may,when the ballportion of the full outer sole is worn partly or wholly away,be denudedof the worn portion, leaving the light slip sole 4 suitable for themilder weather of spring. The consumer may thus avoid the necessity ofpurchasing shoes merely to provide for change of season.

By my method of lasting the necessity of using an iron or iron shod lastis avoided,since the clinching of the nails is wholly unnecessary. Thiscuts otfa material item of expense in all shoe factories.

It will beunderstood that I may doublestitch the shank or may nail orpeg it only without departing from my invention.

By basting the upper to the insole in the manner shown the surplus stockmay be trimmed off without danger of cutting the thread, as would be thecase if the thread passed across the sole.

ltshonld be understood that in lasting I may haste as fast as I draw theupper to place, and. thereby avoid the temporary use of nailsaltogether.

Shoes made according to my invention are much more solid and will wearlonger and better than shoes made by hand or than machinescwed shoes ofother manufacture.

By my invention a single-sewed shoe may be produced which will be moresolid than a handsewed turned shoe, the reason thereof being that in myinvention the outer sole is sewed to the upper or to the insole and theslip-sole is secured by a wholly independent stitching. \Vhat I claimis-- 1. In a boot or shoe,au insole secured to the upper by a bastingcarried around the margin of the upper and into but not through theinsole, said shoe having a slip-sole and an outer sole attached to theinsole and upper in any suitable manner, substantially as described.

2. In a boot or shoe,an insole secured to the upper bya basting carriedaround the margin of the upper, a slip-sole secured by a line ofstitching to the insole and to the turned-in upper, and an outer soleattached by a second line of stitching passing through the slipsole, theturned-in upper, and insole, substantially as described.

3. Aboot or shoe having an upper,an insole having two parallel channelson its inner surface,a slip sole channeled on its outer surface, a lineof stitching uniting the insole, the turned-in upper,and slip-sole,andlying in the channel in the latter, and in one of the channels of theinsole,and a separate line of stitching lying in the other channel ofthe insole and passing through the same, through the turned-in upper,the slip-sole, and the outer sole, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have affixed my signature in presence of twowitnesses.

\V M. F. KEARNEY.

i t nesses:

J AMES L. NORRIS. JAMES A. RUTHERFORD.

